There is one story and one story only
That will prove worth your telling,
Whether as learned bard or gifted child;
To it all lines or lesser gauds belong
That startle with their shining
Such common stories as they stray into.
—Robert Graves
Prologue
The woods came to the edge of the property; to
the gravel of the drive, the electronic gate and
the green twisted-wire fence that kept out the
boars. The dark trees wrapped around one
other home, hidden along the slope, and then
stretched north of the villa, up the steep hill
into what could properly be called a forest.
The wild boar—sanglier—foraged all
around, especially in winter. Occasionally
there might come the sound of rifle shots,
though hunting was illegal in the oak trees and
clearings surrounding such expensive homes.
The well-off owners along the Chemin de
l’Olivette did what they could to protect the
serenity of their days and evenings here in the
countryside above the city.
Because of those tall eastern trees, dawn
declared itself—at any time of year—with a
slow, pale brightening, not the disk of the sun
itself above the horizon. If someone were
watching from the villa windows or terrace,
they would see the black cypresses on the lawn
slowly shift towards green and take form from
the top downwards, emerging from the silhouetted
sentinels they were in the night.
Sometimes, in winter, there was mist, and the
growing light would disperse it like a dream.
However it announced itself, the beginning
of day was a gift in this part of the world, celebrated
in words and art for two thousand years
and more: the light of Provence in the south
of France.
Somewhere below Lyon and north of
Avignon the change was said to begin: a difference
in the air above the earth where men and
women walked, and looked up.
No other sky was quite what this one was. At
a late autumn’s cold dawn, or at midday in
drowsy summer among the cicadas. Or when
the knife of wind—the mistral—ripped down
the Rhone valley (the way soldiers had so often
come), making each olive or cypress tree, magpie,
vineyard, lavender bush, aqueduct in the
distance stand against the wind-scoured sky as
if it were the first, the perfect, example in the
world of what it was.
Aix-en-Provence, the city, lay in a valley
bowl west of the villa. No trees in that direction
to block the view from this high. The city,
more than two thousand years old, founded by
Romans conquering here—surveying and
mapping, levelling and draining, laying down
pipes for a spa, and building their dead-straight
roads—could be seen on spring mornings like
this one, crisply defined, almost supernaturally
clear. Medieval houses and modern ones. A
block of new apartment buildings on a northern
slope, and—tucked into the old quarter—the bell tower of the cathedral rising.
They would all be going there this morning.
A little later than this, but not too much so
(two alarm clocks had gone off in the house by
now, the one woman was already showering).
You didn’t want to linger of a morning, not
with what they were here to do.
Photographers knew about this light.
They would try to use it, to draw upon it as
from an ancient well—then taste again at twilight
to see how doorways and windows showed
and shadowed differently when the light came
from the west, or the sky was blood-red with
sunset underlighting clouds, another kind of
offering.
Gifts of different nuance, morning and
evening here (noon was too bright, shadowless,
for the camera’s eye). Gifts not always deserved
by those dwelling—or arriving—in this too beautiful
part of the world, where so much
blood had been shed and so many bodies
burned or buried or left unburied through
warring centuries.
But as to that, in fairness, were there so many
places where the inhabitants, through the long
millennia, could be said to have been always
worthy of the blessings of the day? This serene
and violent corner of France was no different
from any other on earth—in that regard.
There were differences here, however, most of
them long forgotten by the time that morning’s
first light showed above the forest and found the
flowering Judas trees and anemones—both
purple in hue, both with legends telling why.
The tolling of the cathedral bells drifted
faintly up the valley. The moon lay etched in
the west against the emerging sky: a waxing
moon, one edge of it severed, hanging above
the city.
Dawn was exquisite, memorable, almost a
taste, on the day a tale that had been playing
out for longer than any records knew began to
arc, like the curve of a hunter’s bow or the
arrow’s flight and fall, towards what might be
an ending.
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